A travelogue by Sovan Bandopadhay

A Timeless Encounter: A Day at Uttirakoshamangai Temple

 

 

Since my entry in Ramanathapuram, driver of my vehicle, Kannan, regularly pestered me to visit  Uttirakoshamongai, “The Firsta Shiva temple”(in his words). Finally, on 08.04.2024, I embarked on a pilgrimage to the ancient Uttirakoshamangai Temple, also known as the Mangalanatha Swamy Temple. Nestled near Ramanathapuram, the district headquarter of Ramanathapuram/Ramnad District, this Shiva temple whispered tales of a bygone era, its very stones imbued with the sanctity of reportedly, 3,000 years. It is believed to be one of the earliest Shiva temples in the world, with only the Sun, Moon, and Mars representing the celestial bodies when the temple was established. The sprawling 20-acre complex resonated with an undeniable spiritual energy, drawing me in from the moment I stepped down from my car, barefoot, and walked in through the towering gates. Tourists visit Rameswaram temple, as it is part of Dwadas Jyotirlingam and famous worldwide, but give this temple a slip, though both the temples are in the same district. Legends swirled around the temple's origin. The temple staff, who was guiding us, told that it was built by 1,000 Shiva devotees who attained Moksha (liberation) here. As per Hindu legend, once, One Thousand rishis (ascetics) performed penance worshipping Shiva.

Shiva told the rishis that he would appear in the form of a fireball to acknowledge the penance of 
Mandothari, the wife of king Ravana in Sri Lanka. Mandothari, the wife of Ravana, sought to marry the most devoted Shiva worshipper. Lord Shiva entrusted a sacred scripture to sages for safekeeping. Shiva appeared in the form a small child in Ravana's palace. Ravana lifted the beautiful child and there was a small wound out of it. Simultaneously, there was a fireball out of the Agni Theertham (temple tank), which the rishis felt were on account of Shiva attacking Ravana. Out of thousand, 999 killed themselves by falling in the fire, jumping in the agniteertham, while one of them remained to save the vedic books. Shiva was pleased by the rishi and appeared as Sahasralingam (thousand lingams) for the 999 and one more for himself in the temple. The single rishi was believed to have emerged later as  Manickavasgar in his later birth. He is still worshipped there, in a small temple earmarked to him, inside the temple complex. The temple boasts five towers, including seven-tiered royal towers. Two magnificent yalis (mythical lion-like creatures) guard the entrance with stone balls in their mouths, which visitors can move by hand. Within the temple complex, one can find shrines dedicated to Mangalanathar Swami (The main deity, Lord Shiva), Mangaleswari Amman(Goddess Parvati), Natarajar, Suyambulingam, Byravar, Datsinamoorthy, Chandikeswarar, and Balabhairav. There is also a sacred temple pool(Agniteerthham). The temple's name,
“Uttirakosamangai”, stems from the Lord's teachings to Goddess Parvati about sacred scriptures. During the reign of the Pandyan kings, the temple was a prominent place, and their capital was Uttarakosamangai. But after the downfall of Pandyan reign, Uttirakoshamongai,lost its importance and relevance.As I wandered through the corridors, adorned with intricate carvings depicting mythological stories, I couldn't help but feel a connection to those who had walked these paths before me.
The air hummed with the soft chants of “Om Namah Shivaay” by the devotees, their voices blending seamlessly with the rhythmic clanging of temple bells. I also took part in the chant,instinctively. Felt humbled.

The highlight of my visit was undoubtedly the Mangalanathaswamy shrine. It is in the only Nataraj idol in the world built by carving out a single emerald stone. It’s an wonder, sculptorwise. The anticipation built as I neared the sanctum, eager to witness the famed emerald Nataraja idol. Ensconced in a protective layer of sandalwood paste for most of the
year, this magnificent statue is unveiled only during the Arudhra festival in December. Though I couldn't see the emerald marvel in all its glory, the anticipation itself, when I stood in front of the idol, was electric.Beyond the central sanctum, the temple unveiled a treasure trove of architectural wonders.The towering gopurams, or gateway towers, stood as sentinels, their vibrant colours a stark contrast against the azure sky. The serenity of the temple tank, where devotees performed sacred ablutions, offered a moment of quiet reflection. Even the ancient ilanthai tree, believed
to be 3,000 years old, seemed to radiate an aura of timelessness.
My visit to Uttirakoshamangai Temple wasn't just a historical exploration; it was a deeply personal, spiritual experience. The temple's rich history, coupled with the palpable devotion of its visitors, left an indelible mark on me. It was a journey not just through space, but through time, reminding me of the enduring power of faith and the enduring legacy of our ancestors.
As I came out of the temple complex, carrying with me a sense of peace and tranquility, I knew this wouldn't be my last visit. I felt that, my Posting in Chennai and subsequent coming here in Ramanathapuram as District Nodal Officer was part of a grand plan by Lord Shiva to bring me here and witness his grand presence here. Uttirakoshamangai had woven its magic on my mind and spirit, and I was already yearning to return and lose myself once more in its timeless embrace, if only Lord Shiva pulls me again.