TRAVELOGUE BY PARAMITA MUKHERJEE

Road to Serenity: Exploring the magical land
of Ladakh with Family

 

Rugged brown landscape all around, meandering mountain roads, and a feeling of serenity brushing past my bare face— for how long I was beholding the vision, I cannot tell. All I can recount is it felt like forever.

There's no point in guessing that this picture, which has been in my head at nighttime and in the dawn for as long as I can remember, is "the Land of High Passes"— Ladakh. Nestled in the heart of the majestic Himalayas, this unique location inside the nation promises an unforgettable trip.

Here let me mention, my wish was to have a family trip to Ladakh & not just travel there alone. My parents and younger sibling, all of them big-time orophile (someone who loves mountains), were all up to take the challenge the moment I threw it at them. I call it a ‘challenge’ as here we speak of travelling to a destination that lies at an elevation of over 3000 metres above sea-level. That's no little accomplishment, mind you! Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) or altitude sickness as it is commonly known is pretty common while travelling to such places. Though, these forewarnings failed to dampen their spirits even for a while.

In the middle of this exciting discussion at the dinner table I turned back to take a look at the calendar and was taken aback!

We were in the mid of May, 2024 already. The best time to visit Ladakh is between April to July. So, we only had a month and a half to design and arrange the entire trip. Without wasting a moment further, my sister & I were at it immediately. Since it was too last moment, the flights were full. Hence, taking the road was the only option left. Or else we would have to defer the trip for next year. But, somehow that did not seem like an option to us. After all, who can be certain of the future?

After a lot of research we decided on embarking on the journey from Amritsar. We boarded a flight to Amritsar from Kolkata. From Amritsar we reached Manali on road. It was early dawn. Our journey to the rugged landscape of Ladakh was to begin from Manali, where the lush green valleys and the lively Beas River had welcomed us with open arms. The day that we reached Manali was spent exploring the town, visiting the Hadimba Devi temple and going to a few old vibrant cafes around.

The adventure begins…

The next morning we woke up before the sun. Loaded our bags into a traveller bus and set off towards Ladakh. The picturesque Leh-Manali Highway was to lead us to our destination. This Highway, a legendary route that snakes through the heart of the Himalayas, had always fascinated me with tales of its rugged charm. It promised not just a journey, but an experience of raw landscapes, unpredictable weather, and unparalleled adventure. I knew it was going to be the trip of a lifetime.

The first leg was to climb towards Rohtang Pass. At 13,050 feet, it marked the gateway to the arid mountains. As we ascended further, the lush green valleys of Manali gave way to the barren, rocky terrain. The air grew thinner as we moved ahead. And the views became more dramatic. On reaching Lahaul valley we took a short break at Keylong, a quaint town surrounded by towering peaks, before heading to Jispa, a charming hamlet by the Bhaga River.

The route to Sarchu from Jispa was breathtaking yet challenging. To reach Sarchu we had to cross the Baralacha La Pass. Situated at 16,040 feet, this Baralacha greeted us with pristine views of snow-capped peaks and half-frozen streams. Sarchu, the vast windswept plain surrounded by surreal mountains was cold and windy.  

The journey continued from there. We encountered several high-altitude passes including Lachulung La and the winding Gata Loops with its twenty-one hairpin bends. Nevertheless, Tanglang La, one of the highest motorable passes in the world situated at 17,582 feet was a major highlight of this highway trip. By the time we reached Leh, the sun had disappeared far behind the horizon. But the fluttering prayer flags and the peaceful vibes of the quaint city turned our exhaustion into exhilaration.  

The Pangong experience

The next morning was to begin a bit too early for us. The destination that we were to head towards on this day was the iconic Pangong Lake. This was around 217 kms away from the city of Leh. But to reach the ultimate destination we had to cross the Chang La pass. And to be honest, it was arduous to say the least. Yet the journey was made rewarding and breathtaking with views of grazing yaks and few other animals that we do not know the names of. We could also spot a few Marmot homes and stopped by to greet these cute little creatures time and again. Along the way, we also took a halt at an old-fashioned mountain café for our breakfast. The menu on offer was limited. But the immeasurable warmth of the owner made the usual hot chocolate and maggi all the more delectable. It should be mentioned that the eateries on the way to Pangong are few and one stop is spaced out at almost an hour’s distance from the other.

In about quarter of an hour of starting again, we could spot a stretch of light blue on the brown landscape from a far. As we neared towards the blue water it turned into turquoise. We witnessed the ever-changing shades stretched endlessly against the backdrop of the arid mountains in awe. Finally, we were at Pangong. It was a marvellous sight to behold! Even better than what we had seen in the movies so far. Life seemed all the more beautiful and our hearts filled with gratitude as we sat by the shore looking at the distant border & marvelled at the sheer tranquility this place has in offer.    

We started back for Leh by the afternoon. On our way back we visited the serene Shanti Stupa. Post which we were about to call it a day, but the bustling local market of Leh caught our attention. We shopped till we dropped. Our bags were full with souvenirs, warm woollens any many more: all things that would allow us to carry the essence of the rustic Ladakhi culture back to our city home.    

The place to visit on our Ladakh exploration itinerary the next day was Nubra valley. The drive through the Khardung La, one of the highest motorable passes in the world, with its hairpin bends and snow-covered peaks was highly thrilling. The landscape of Nubra, known for its sand dunes and double-humped Bactrian camels was surreal. A camel ride at Hunder added a touch of adventure to the day. Over the next few days, we visited the Diskit Monastery, home to a giant Buddha statue overlooking the valley and Leh Palace, a nine-story building reminiscent of Lhasa's Potala Palace. Walking through its ancient halls, I felt transported back to the time of Ladakhi kings. The trip concluded with a drive to the confluence of the Zanskar and Indus rivers at Nimmu— a mesmerizing sight, a site where the blue and green hued water seamlessly blend into each other reflecting the effortless sync in the natural elements, the driving force behind the order of the universe.

This unforgettable family adventure has captured a permanent room in all our hearts. The journey tested us with its challenges— long hours on bumpy roads, high altitudes, and chilly nights. But it also rewarded us with breathtaking landscapes, unique experiences, and a deeper appreciation for each other. The shared excitement, the playful banter, the endless photo sessions, and the quiet moments of awe brought us closer to each other than ever. As we made our way back, everyone agreed that this wasn’t just a vacation; it was a journey of discovery— of Ladakh, the Himalayas, and the bond we share as a family.